Limestone karst mountains rise above calm river water in Ninh Binh's Trang An landscape.

Vietnam

One country, three different trips

Vietnam runs 1,650 kilometres from the delta to the Chinese border, and the two ends are rarely doing the same thing. Getting a Vietnam trip right is mostly about deciding which of the three parts your dates actually suit.

Regions

The three regions

South, centre and north are not administrative labels here — they are three different climates, three food traditions and three travelling speeds. The south is flat, hot all year and easy to move around. The centre is narrow, walkable and has the best food in the country along with its worst weather window. The north has mountains, four genuine seasons and the longest drives.

Time

How long the country needs

Ten nights covers two regions properly or three badly. Fourteen is the honest minimum for all three without the trip becoming a series of transfers. Twenty-one lets you add the far north or Cambodia and still have two places where you stay long enough to stop unpacking.

NightsWhat fits comfortablyWhat it costs you
7One region, or Saigon plus the delta plus Hoi AnYou will not see the north
10Two regions properly, with one internal flightThe far north and Phong Nha
14All three regions, four bases, two flightsDepth in any one of them
18-21All three plus Ha Giang or Phong NhaNot much — this is the sweet spot
24+Vietnam plus Cambodia or Laos, overland where sensibleNothing, if the dates are right

Timing

Weather, honestly

There is no month when all three regions are at their best, and anyone who tells you otherwise is selling. January to March is the best all-round compromise: dry in the south, cool and dry in the centre, cold and often grey in Hanoi. April to June is hot everywhere but is the right window for the northern mountains. July to September brings afternoon rain to the south, hot clear weather and good sea to the centre, and the wettest weeks to the north. October and November are excellent in the south and are the central storm season, when Hoi An floods most years.

JFMAMJJASONDSouthern VietnamCentral VietnamNorthern Vietnam

● ideal · ◐ workable · ○ poor. Typhoons affect the central coast mainly between September and November; the far north is coldest in January and February.

Transport

Getting between the regions

  • Saigon to Da Nang or Hanoi: fly, two hours. Cheap booked early, and it saves a day and a half of road each way.
  • Da Nang to Hue: the train along the coast is one of the best two hours in the country. The road over the Hai Van pass is the other.
  • Hanoi to the bay: two and a half hours on the expressway. To Sapa: five and a half by road or overnight to Lao Cai by rail.
  • Reunification Express end to end: 32 hours and a genuine experience, but as a way of covering distance it eats a route.
The one we argue about

Travellers often want to drive Hue to Hanoi to see the country in between. It is 12 to 14 hours on a road that is mostly unremarkable. Fly, and spend the day you saved at Phong Nha instead.

Not for everyone

Who Vietnam does not suit

If you want one beach and a pool for ten days, this is not the best-value country in the region for that and Thailand or the Philippines will serve you better. If you cannot manage three to five hours in a vehicle on some days, the full-length route is not for you — though a single region absolutely is. And if noise bothers you, the cities are loud in a way that photographs do not convey: Hanoi and Saigon are wonderful and they are not restful.

Common questions

Questions travellers ask most

Is Vietnam safe for travellers?

Yes, and unusually so for petty crime outside the two big cities. The genuine risk here is road traffic: crossing the street in Saigon and riding a motorbike in the mountains are the two things that actually hurt visitors.

North to south or south to north?

South to north slightly more often, because the weather usually improves as you go and the bay is a good place to finish. In December and January we usually run it the other way.

How much does a day cost on the ground?

Outside hotels, a comfortable day of food, coffee, entrance fees and taxis runs about USD 25 to 40 per person. You can do it on half that easily and it is hard to spend much more without trying.

Do people speak English?

In the tourist economy, yes. In the delta backroads and the northern mountains, rarely, which is the main practical argument for a guide in those two places specifically.

Limestone karst mountains rise above calm river water in Ninh Binh's Trang An landscape.

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