Further out, where the canals narrow

Day 1

Saigon to Cai Be, An Binh island and back

Sampan through An Binh’s narrowest canals

07:00 — collection from your lobby. Two and a half hours south and west on the expressway and the delta highway, with a coffee stop. Your guide uses the drive to explain how the Mekong splits into its branches and why the province you are heading into grows so much fruit.

09:30 — Cai Be. A walk along the riverfront past the tall French-era church and the market, then onto our boat. We pass the few trading boats still at the old market spot, then head downstream to the Mang Thit river, where brick and pottery kilns shaped like beehives line the bank. Several are still fired; many are falling in.

11:30 — An Binh island. We change into sampans, four people and one rower in each, and go slowly through the small canals. The rowers are local, and the pace is theirs. 12:30 — lunch in a family house on the canal: fish from the pond, a clay-pot dish, greens from the garden, and fruit picked that morning.

14:00 — a short walk on the island lanes, past longan and rambutan gardens, then the boat back to the vehicle. 15:00 — departure for Saigon. 17:30 — at your hotel, give or take the evening traffic.