Tours out of Ho Chi Minh City and across Vietnam
The length of Vietnam
The winter route, run from the top
From late November to January the country is best read from the top down: Hanoi cool and clear, the centre wet but workable, and the south at its driest just as you arrive. This route follows that order and gives Hue the time it rarely gets.
Overview
Why this one runs top to bottom
Weather decides direction more than taste does. From mid-November the north dries out and cools down, which suits long mornings on foot in Hanoi and a clear night on the bay. The central coast is still catching its last rains in December, so we keep Hue and Hoi An in the middle, where a grey day costs least. Saigon and the delta end the trip because they are hot and dry exactly then.
The other difference is Hue. Most routes give the imperial city one rushed day between flights. Here it gets three nights: a day for the citadel and the river, a day for the tombs, and a day for either the DMZ or the city’s food. It is the history-heavy version of the classic route, and it is also the one where you eat best.
- Length
- 12 days, 11 nights
- Bases
- Hanoi, Hue, Hoi An, Saigon
- Flights
- Hanoi–Hue, Da Nang–Saigon
- Road day
- Hai Van pass, 3 hours
- History weight
- Heavy in Hue and Saigon
- Pace
- Steady
Nights
Where you sleep
Day by day
Day by day
Day 1
Arrive in Hanoi
The lake at dusk
Pick-up at Noi Bai and forty-five minutes into the city. An easy first evening around Hoan Kiem lake with our partner guide.
Day 2
Hanoi, the long way round
Hoa Lo, read two ways
The Ho Chi Minh complex early (it closes for part of the year, and we check), the Temple of Literature, then Hoa Lo prison after lunch. A bowl of bun thang for the evening.
Day 3
To Ha Long
The bay after the day boats leave
Two and a half hours on the expressway, aboard by midday, a cave and a kayak in the afternoon.
Day 4
Off the boat, fly to Hue
The bay at sunrise
Disembark late morning and drive straight to Noi Bai for an evening flight to Hue, about 1 hour 10 minutes. Phu Bai airport is fifteen minutes from the hotel.
Day 5
The citadel and the river
The Forbidden Purple City ruins
The imperial city in the morning, then a dragon boat up the Perfume River to Thien Mu pagoda. Our Hue partner guide knows the dynasty well; ask the awkward questions.
Day 6
The tombs, by car and bicycle
Minh Mang’s lake
Minh Mang and Khai Dinh in the morning, lunch in a garden house, and Tu Duc by bicycle on quiet lanes in the afternoon.
Day 7
The DMZ, or Hue’s kitchen
Whichever you chose
Your choice, made on the day before. North to Vinh Moc tunnels and the Ben Hai river, seven hours; or a slow food day in the markets and a cooking lesson in royal-style dishes.
Day 8
Over the Hai Van pass
Lang Co from above
Three hours to Hoi An by road over the pass, with stops at Lang Co lagoon and the summit forts. In December the pass is often in cloud; we go anyway and the train is the fallback.
Day 9
Hoi An on foot
The assembly halls before the crowds
The old town at opening time and a cao lau lunch. The afternoon is free.
Day 10
My Son, and a flight south
My Son in morning light
The Cham towers at opening, back by eleven, then Da Nang to Saigon, about 1 hour 20 minutes. Dinner in District 3.
Day 11
Saigon: the war, told from the south
The palace basement
The Independence Palace and the War Remnants Museum, then Cho Lon in the afternoon. For those who want it, Cu Chi at Ben Duoc can replace the museums.
Day 12
Departure
A last iced coffee
A coffee morning if the flight allows, then Tan Son Nhat.
Price
Price
| Travellers | Tier 1 — simple | Tier 2 — comfortable | Tier 3 — the good ones |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2 travelling | from 1495 | from 1870 | from 2840 |
| 4 travelling | from 1225 | from 1530 | from 2330 |
| 6 travelling | from 1105 | from 1385 | from 2100 |
Three nights in Hue costs less than it sounds: the city’s hotels are good value in every tier. The DMZ day adds a car and a longer guide day; the food day does not. Christmas and New Year dates are priced as high season and need booking by the end of the summer.
Included
What is included
What the price includes
- Private car and driver throughout, with every airport and harbour transfer
- English-speaking guides: partner guides in Hanoi and Hue, ours in Saigon
- Eleven nights in your chosen tier, one of them on the bay
- Hanoi–Hue and Da Nang–Saigon flights in economy
- Meals as listed, entrance fees and all boats in the itinerary
What it does not include
- International flights and visas
- Travel insurance
- Drinks, tips and meals not listed
- The Christmas or New Year gala dinners some hotels make compulsory
Timing
The months this is built for
● ideal · ◐ workable · ○ poor.
Late November to mid-January is the window. The north is dry and between 15 and 22 degrees, so you will want a jacket in Hanoi in the evenings. Hue and Hoi An can still see rain in December; with three nights in each, one wet day does not break anything. Saigon is dry and in the low thirties.
From February the north turns damp and grey and we would reverse the direction. In October and early November the central coast is in its storm season; we will only run this then with flexible hotel bookings in Hue and Hoi An.
Not for everyone
Who should skip it
If you want beach time, this is not the route: December on the central coast is grey and the sea is rough. If the war and the dynasties do not interest you, three nights in Hue will feel long, and the ten-day route will suit you better. And if you are travelling in February or March, do not take this one simply because it starts where your flight lands. Turn it round.
Common questions
Questions travellers ask most
How cold is Hanoi in December?
Days are usually 17 to 22 degrees and evenings cooler, damp rather than bitter. A light down jacket or fleece is enough. The mountains are much colder, but this route does not go there.
Is the DMZ day suitable if we are not interested in military history?
Probably not. It is a long day about a war. Take the food day instead; it is the other half of why Hue is worth three nights.
Can we add the delta?
Yes, as a thirteenth day with a night in Can Tho. December is a good month for it.
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