A woman sits on a rock ledge overlooking the winding mountain roads of the Ha Giang Loop.

Northern Vietnam

The far north end to end, along the border

The Ha Giang loop and the Cao Bang waterfall country joined by the mountain road that follows the Chinese border, then a night on a lake before the drive home.

Overview

The long way round the far north

Ha Giang and Cao Bang share a border with China and a landscape of karst, rivers and minority villages, but very few travellers see both, because the road between them is a full day of mountain driving. This trip does exactly that: three nights on the Ha Giang loop, then east through Bao Lac to Cao Bang, the Ban Gioc waterfall and Nguom Ngao cave, and a night at Ba Be lake to break the drive back to Hanoi.

It is a demanding week, and we say so. The driving adds up to well over thirty hours. Our Ha Giang partner, an operator we have worked with for years, runs the loop and the border stretch; our Hanoi partner handles the Cao Bang end. We would suggest nine days for anyone who wants a slower version, and we will build it on request.

A woman stands on a boat deck admiring the towering limestone cliffs of the Nho Que River gorge in Ha Giang.
Multiple tiers of cascading water flow over limestone cliffs into a turquoise pool at Ban Gioc Waterfall.
Ma Pi Leng on day three. · Ban Gioc on day five.
Length
7 days, 6 nights
Driving
4 to 7 hours most days
Nights
Quan Ba, Dong Van, Meo Vac, Cao Bang, Ban Gioc, Ba Be
Best months
September to October
Stay
Homestays and simple hotels
Run by
Our Ha Giang and Hanoi partners

Nights

The route and the nights

Quan Ba1 nightFamily homestay in the valley.Dong Van1 nightSimple guesthouse near the old street.Meo Vac1 nightSmall guesthouse in town.Cao Bang city1 nightPlain city hotel.Ban Gioc1 nightTay family homestay near the falls.Ba Be lake1 nightLakeside stilt-house homestay.

Day by day

Day by day

Day 1

Hanoi to Ha Giang and Quan Ba

Leave Hanoi at 06:30 for the six-hour drive to Ha Giang city, where you meet your guide and, if you have chosen them, your riders. The permit is checked and you climb for about an hour and a half to Quan Ba for the night.

StayHomestay in Quan BaMealsLunch, dinnerTravelAbout 6 hours, then 1.5 hours

Day 2

Across the plateau to Dong Van

North through Yen Minh’s pine forest and onto the stone plateau, with the Hmong king’s house at Sa Phin after lunch and the flag tower at Lung Cu if you want the northernmost point. Dong Van by late afternoon.

StayGuesthouse in Dong VanMealsBreakfast, lunch, dinnerTravelAbout 5 hours with stops

Day 3

Ma Pi Leng and the Nho Que river

The Ma Pi Leng pass in the morning light, then down to the Nho Que for a boat ride through the gorge. Afternoon in Meo Vac, a town built around its market, and an early night.

StayGuesthouse in Meo VacMealsBreakfast, lunch, dinnerTravelAbout 2 hoursOn footShort walks at the viewpoints

Day 4

The border road east to Cao Bang

The longest day: from Meo Vac through Bao Lac and across into Cao Bang province, six to seven hours of mountain road with almost no other traffic. The riders, if you used them, hand over to the car at the start of this stretch. Arrive in Cao Bang city in the late afternoon.

StayCity hotel in Cao BangMealsBreakfast, lunch, dinnerTravel6 to 7 hours

Day 5

Ban Gioc waterfall and Nguom Ngao cave

About two hours east over the Ma Phuc pass to Ban Gioc. Walk the base of the falls and take a raft towards the spray, then an hour inside Nguom Ngao cave after lunch. The night is at a homestay close to the falls.

StayTay homestay near Ban GiocMealsBreakfast, lunch, dinnerTravelAbout 2 hoursOn footAbout 2 hours, including the cave

Day 6

West to Ba Be lake

An early look at the falls, then four and a half to five hours west to Ba Be, a freshwater lake among limestone hills. An afternoon boat on the lake and a quiet evening in a stilt-house homestay by the water.

StayStilt-house homestay at Ba BeMealsBreakfast, lunch, dinnerTravel4.5 to 5 hours

Day 7

Ba Be to Hanoi

Breakfast by the lake and about five to six hours back to Hanoi, arriving mid-afternoon.

MealsBreakfast, lunchTravel5 to 6 hours
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Price

Price

TravellersTier 1 — simpleTier 2 — comfortableTier 3 — the good ones
2 travellingfrom 995from 1245from 1890
4 travellingfrom 815from 1020from 1550
6 travellingfrom 735from 920from 1400
Per person in US dollars, private trip, sharing a double or twin room. The three hotel tiers are the ones described on our How we book page. High season and single rooms cost more; your quote is itemised.

The table above is for a car and driver throughout. Easy riders on the Ha Giang section add to the cost for groups but little for a couple. Accommodation is simple in every tier here, so the tiers make less difference than elsewhere; the main variable is how many of you share the car.

Included

What is included

What the price includes

  • Private car and driver for seven days, or easy riders on the loop and the car after
  • Local English-speaking guides on both sections
  • Six nights in homestays, guesthouses and a city hotel, breakfast included
  • All meals as listed
  • Border-area permit, entrance fees, the Nho Que boat, the raft at Ban Gioc and the Ba Be boat
  • Helmets and rain gear for the easy-rider option

What it does not include

  • Self-drive motorbike hire
  • Travel insurance, which is compulsory for this trip
  • Visas, drinks and tips

Practical

Riding, weather and the border

If you want the loop on two wheels, ride pillion behind a professional local driver; it is the safe way to do it. Self-riding without a motorbike licence valid in Vietnam will almost certainly void your travel insurance, and the nearest proper hospital can be many hours away.

September and October are the months when both halves work: the air is clear on the plateau, and the Ban Gioc falls have water from August to October. March to May is good for Ha Giang but brings a thin waterfall. From December to February the north is cold, with single digits on the plateau. June to August is the wettest period, with landslides on the border road.

Passports

Carry your passport every day. There are police checkpoints on the border roads in both provinces.

Weathered gateway with Chinese couplets carved on stone pillars at the Hmong King's Palace in Ha Giang.
The plateau on day two.
A river winds through a misty green valley with terraced fields near Bao Lac, Cao Bang.
The border road east.
Terraced rice fields ripple across a green valley in Hoang Su Phi, surrounded by forested hills and small huts.
Ba Be, the last night.
A water buffalo grazes on a green meadow near Nguom Ngao's karst peak with a natural hole in Cao Bang.
An hour underground.

Not for everyone

Who this does not suit

Anyone who dislikes long days in a vehicle should not book this one; take the four-day loop or the three-day Cao Bang trip instead, or ask for the nine-day version. Rooms are simple throughout, and on some nights the bathroom is shared. And first-time visitors with less than two weeks in Vietnam will usually get more from a trip that includes the centre or the south.

Common questions

Questions travellers ask most

Is seven days enough for Ha Giang and Cao Bang?

It is enough, at a brisk pace, with one six-to-seven-hour day between them. Nine days is the comfortable version.

Can I ride a motorbike myself?

Only with a motorbike licence valid in Vietnam; otherwise your insurance is almost certainly void. We recommend riding pillion with a professional.

When is the best time?

September to October for both halves: clear skies on the plateau and water in the Ban Gioc falls.

A woman sits on a rock ledge overlooking the winding mountain roads of the Ha Giang Loop.

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