Terraced rice fields ripple across a wide valley below forested mountains in Mu Cang Chai.

Northern Vietnam

Valleys, terraces and high passes in one circuit

A circuit of the mountains west of Hanoi, from White Thai valleys to Hmong terraces and over the highest road pass in the country to Sapa, without driving the same road twice.

Overview

A circuit, not an out-and-back

Most northern trips go out from Hanoi to one place and come back the same way. This one goes round. It leaves west to the White Thai valley of Mai Chau, crosses the Moc Chau plateau and the Da river to Tu Le, climbs the Khau Pha pass to the terraces of Mu Cang Chai, then continues over the O Quy Ho pass, the highest road pass in Vietnam, to the valleys below Sapa. The final day is the expressway back to Hanoi.

Nine days lets every place have two nights except the one that exists to break a drive. The car, driver and guide stay with you throughout and come from the Hanoi operator we have worked with for years. The timing matters: this is best in the two terrace seasons, when Mu Cang Chai and Sapa are at their finest.

A thatched-roof stilt house sits beside rice paddies below jagged green mountains in Mai Chau valley.
A Hmong family in traditional dress rests beside golden rice terraces in Mu Cang Chai, Vietnam.
Mai Chau, the first two nights. · Mu Cang Chai in late September.
Length
9 days, 8 nights
Longest drive
About 6 to 7 hours
Passes
Thung Khe, Khau Pha, O Quy Ho
Best months
Mid-September to October, May to June
Walking
2 to 5 hours on most days
Run by
Our Hanoi partner operator

Nights

The route and the nights

Mai Chau2 nightsStilt house with a private room, outside the busiest villages.Tu Le1 nightThai family guesthouse in the valley.Mu Cang Chai2 nightsHmong homestay or small lodge above the terraces.Sapa valleys2 nightsSmall lodge in the Muong Hoa valley, not in the town.Hanoi1 nightSmall hotel near the Old Quarter.

Day by day

Day by day

Day 1

Hanoi to Mai Chau

Leave Hanoi at 08:00 and cross the Thung Khe pass into the Mai Chau valley, about three and a half hours. An afternoon cycle along the dykes between the rice and a family dinner in the stilt house.

StayStilt house in Mai ChauMealsLunch, dinnerTravelAbout 3.5 hoursOn footCycling about 15 km

Day 2

A day in the valley

A morning walk up to a hill village, lunch back in the valley and a free afternoon. Mai Chau is at its best when you are not trying to see anything.

StayStilt house in Mai ChauMealsBreakfast, lunch, dinnerOn footAbout 3 hours

Day 3

Moc Chau and across the Da river to Tu Le

The longest drive of the loop: over the Moc Chau plateau with its tea hills, down to the Da river and on through Nghia Lo to Tu Le. About six to seven hours with stops, arriving late afternoon. Tu Le’s sticky rice is the supper.

StayThai guesthouse in Tu LeMealsBreakfast, lunch, dinnerTravel6 to 7 hours

Day 4

The Khau Pha pass to Mu Cang Chai

A short drive over the Khau Pha pass, stopping at the top for the view back down into the Tu Le valley. An afternoon walk through the terraces around La Pan Tan.

StayHomestay or lodge in Mu Cang ChaiMealsBreakfast, lunch, dinnerTravelAbout 2 hoursOn footAbout 2 hours

Day 5

On foot in the terraces

A full day of walks chosen by the state of the fields, from the classic viewpoints down into Hmong villages. Three to five hours of walking.

StayHomestay or lodge in Mu Cang ChaiMealsBreakfast, lunch, dinnerOn foot3 to 5 hours

Day 6

Over O Quy Ho to Sapa

North-west through Than Uyen and Lai Chau, then over the O Quy Ho pass and down into Sapa, about five hours. You bypass the town and settle into a lodge in the valley.

StaySmall lodge in the Muong Hoa valleyMealsBreakfast, lunch, dinnerTravelAbout 5 hours

Day 7

Walking the Muong Hoa valley

A valley walk of four to five hours with a local guide, through terraces and Hmong, Dao and Giay villages, with lunch in a village house.

StaySmall lodge in the Muong Hoa valleyMealsBreakfast, lunch, dinnerOn foot4 to 5 hours

Day 8

Sapa to Hanoi

A last short walk if you want it, then five and a half hours on the expressway back to Hanoi. Dinner in the Old Quarter.

StaySmall hotel near the Old QuarterMealsBreakfast, lunchTravelAbout 5.5 hours

Day 9

Departure

Transfer to Noi Bai, about 45 minutes, for your flight.

MealsBreakfastTravelAbout 45 minutes
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Price

Price

TravellersTier 1 — simpleTier 2 — comfortableTier 3 — the good ones
2 travellingfrom 1295from 1620from 2460
4 travellingfrom 1060from 1325from 2020
6 travellingfrom 960from 1200from 1820
Per person in US dollars, private trip, sharing a double or twin room. The three hotel tiers are the ones described on our How we book page. High season and single rooms cost more; your quote is itemised.

The table above covers nine days of car, driver and guide, which is most of the cost; that is why it falls sharply for four or six travellers. The tiers mostly change the Hanoi hotel and the Sapa lodge, since the stilt house and the Mu Cang Chai homestay are simple whichever tier you choose. The late-September harvest weeks cost more and book early.

Included

What is included

What the price includes

  • Private car and driver for nine days
  • English-speaking guide throughout, with a local walking guide in Sapa
  • Eight nights of accommodation, breakfast daily
  • Meals as listed in the day by day
  • Bicycles in Mai Chau, entrance fees and village fees
  • Our 24/7 line

What it does not include

  • International and domestic flights
  • Visas and travel insurance
  • Drinks and tips
  • The Fansipan cable car

Practical

When to go

The loop is built around the terraces. From about mid-September to early October the rice at Mu Cang Chai and Sapa is gold; in May and June it is flooded for planting. October is clear and dry. From December to February the north is cold — Sapa can be near freezing at night, and O Quy Ho can have ice — and June to August is the wettest period, with landslides on the mountain roads and cloud in the valleys.

A winding mountain road cuts through forested slopes near Y Ty, Lao Cai province.
O Quy Ho on day six.
A worker sprays water over rows of tea bushes on a misty morning in Moc Chau, Son La.
Moc Chau tea hills, day three.
Aerial view of the winding road over Khau Pha Pass through misty green mountains in Mu Cang Chai.
The Khau Pha pass.
Golden rice terraces cascade down a mountain valley with a bridge and scattered houses near Fansipan, Lao Cai.
The Muong Hoa valley.

Not for everyone

Who this does not suit

Nine days in the northwest is a lot of mountain road for anyone who suffers from motion sickness. Travellers who need hotel comfort every night should know that five of the eight nights are in stilt houses, homestays or small lodges. And if your dates fall in July or August, or in the depth of winter, the terraces that justify the loop will not look like the photographs; we will tell you so and suggest a different route.

Common questions

Questions travellers ask most

Why not just go to Sapa?

Sapa alone is three days. The loop adds Mai Chau, Tu Le and Mu Cang Chai and never drives the same road twice.

How much walking is there?

Two to five hours on most days, always optional. The car is never far away.

When are the terraces at their best?

Gold from about mid-September to early October, flooded in May and June.

Terraced rice fields ripple across a wide valley below forested mountains in Mu Cang Chai.

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