A person stands on a cliff overlooking the turquoise Nho Que River winding through steep limestone mountains in Ha Giang.

The length of Vietnam

Three weeks, from the delta to the border

Twenty-one days is enough to stop choosing between the headline places and the far ends. This route keeps three full days in the south, adds the DMZ and the Phong Nha caves in the centre, and finishes with the Ha Giang loop in the far north.

Overview

The whole country, including the ends

Most three-week routes gain their extra week by adding beach time. This one uses it for the two places that shorter routes always cut: Phong Nha, where the caves are among the largest on earth, and Ha Giang, where the road along the Chinese border is the most dramatic drive in the country. We reach both without cutting the south short, which is what usually gets squeezed.

The route follows the country’s recent history from south to north: the tunnels at Cu Chi, the old demarcation line at the Ben Hai river, the bombed limestone of Phong Nha, which was part of the Ho Chi Minh trail, and then the minority highlands, where that history reached late and differently. Our partner guides in Hue and Ha Giang are the ones we use for the DMZ and the loop precisely because they are from there.

A woman in a conical hat stands on a boat at the floating market in Can Tho, Vietnam.
Tourists gather under a thatched-roof shelter while a guide explains a former tunnel site on the Hue DMZ tour.
Cai Rang · Vinh Moc
Length
21 days, 20 nights
Regions
All three, plus the far north
Flights
Saigon–Da Nang, Dong Hoi–Hanoi
Longest drives
Hanoi–Ha Giang, 6 hours each way
History weight
Heavy: Cu Chi, the DMZ
Pace
Full, with rest days

Nights

Where you sleep

Saigon3City and Cu ChiCan Tho2The deltaHoi An3Old town and My SonHue2Citadel and tombsPhong Nha2Guesthouse or lodge by the riverHanoi2Before the northHa Giang loop4Ha Giang, Dong Van, Meo Vac, Du GiaHanoi2The end

Day by day

Day by day

Day 1

Arrive in Saigon

The first street dinner

Pick-up and an easy evening.

StayHotel in District 1MealsNone includedTravel20–40 minutes

Day 2

Saigon

The museum

The Independence Palace, the War Remnants Museum and the post office, with our own guide.

StayHotel in District 1MealsBreakfast, lunchOn foot4 km

Day 3

Cu Chi

The tunnels

The tunnels at Ben Duoc at 08:30, back by lunch, and Cho Lon in the late afternoon.

StayHotel in District 1MealsBreakfast, lunchTravelAbout 3 hours in total

Day 4

To the delta

The side channels

Via Vinh Long and the orchard islands by small boat, arriving in Can Tho by late afternoon.

StayRiverside hotel, Can ThoMealsBreakfast, lunchTravelAbout 3.5 hours with stops

Day 5

Cai Rang and the canals

The market before seven

The floating market at 05:30, then the smaller canals by sampan and a bicycle ride through the orchards.

StayRiverside hotel, Can ThoMealsBreakfast, lunch

Day 6

Fly to Da Nang

Lanterns on the first evening

The drive to Saigon and an afternoon flight of about 1 hour 20 minutes. Hoi An by evening.

StaySmall hotel, Hoi AnMealsBreakfastTravel3.5 hours, then 45 minutes

Day 7

Hoi An

The assembly halls

The old town at opening time, the afternoon free.

StaySmall hotel, Hoi AnMealsBreakfastOn foot3 km

Day 8

My Son

The towers in morning light

The Cham sanctuary at 06:30, and a free afternoon.

StaySmall hotel, Hoi AnMealsBreakfastTravelAbout 2 hours in total

Day 9

Over the pass to Hue

Lang Co from the summit

Three hours over the Hai Van, and the river to Thien Mu at sunset.

StayRiverside hotel, HueMealsBreakfast, lunchTravelAbout 3 hours

Day 10

Hue

Khai Dinh

The citadel in the morning and two tombs in the afternoon.

StayRiverside hotel, HueMealsBreakfast, lunchTravelAbout 1.5 hours

Day 11

The DMZ on the way to Phong Nha

The bridge at Hien Luong

North along the old frontier: the Vinh Moc tunnels, the Ben Hai river and the Truong Son cemetery, then on to Phong Nha. A long day of eight to nine hours with the stops, and the heaviest of the trip.

StayRiverside guesthouse or lodge, Phong NhaMealsBreakfast, lunchTravelAbout 5 hours in total

Day 12

Paradise cave and the river cave

Paradise cave’s scale

A boat up the river into Phong Nha cave, and Paradise cave in the afternoon, with its kilometre of boardwalk.

StayRiverside lodge, Phong NhaMealsBreakfast, lunchOn foot3–4 km

Day 13

The Dark cave, then fly to Hanoi

The mud bath in the cave

Zip line, mud and a swim at the Dark cave in the morning if you want it, or a slow breakfast. Then forty-five minutes to Dong Hoi and a flight of about 1 hour 15 minutes to Hanoi.

StayHotel in the Old QuarterMealsBreakfastTravel45 minutes and 45 minutes

Day 14

Hanoi, and a rest

Hoa Lo prison

A half day with the guide, and the afternoon to repack for the mountains.

StayHotel in the Old QuarterMealsBreakfast, lunchOn foot4 km

Day 15

To Ha Giang

The first passes

Six hours north, the second half on mountain road. We use a car and driver; an easy rider on a motorbike is possible with our Ha Giang partner if you prefer.

StayHotel, Ha Giang cityMealsBreakfast, dinnerTravelAbout 6 hours

Day 16

To Dong Van

The karst plateau

Through Quan Ba’s twin peaks and the pine forest at Yen Minh onto the Dong Van karst plateau. About five hours of driving with plenty of stops.

StayGuesthouse, Dong VanMealsBreakfast, lunch, dinnerTravelAbout 5 hours

Day 17

Ma Pi Leng to Meo Vac

The Nho Que gorge from above

An early walk around Dong Van old town, then the Ma Pi Leng pass above the Nho Que gorge, and Meo Vac by early afternoon.

StayGuesthouse, Meo VacMealsBreakfast, lunch, dinnerTravelAbout 2 hours

Day 18

To Du Gia

Du Gia at dusk

Back roads south to the Du Gia valley, the quietest part of the loop. An afternoon walk to the waterfall.

StayHomestay, Du GiaMealsBreakfast, lunch, dinnerTravelAbout 4 hoursOn foot3 km

Day 19

Back to Hanoi

The last view from the pass

About three hours to Ha Giang city and six more to Hanoi. A long day; we break it with lunch.

StayHotel in the Old QuarterMealsBreakfast, lunchTravelAbout 8–9 hours

Day 20

Free in Hanoi

Doing nothing

Nothing booked after nine days of moving.

StayHotel in the Old QuarterMealsBreakfast

Day 21

Departure

Three weeks, end to end

Transfer to Noi Bai.

MealsBreakfastTravel45 minutes
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Price

Price

TravellersTier 1 — simpleTier 2 — comfortableTier 3 — the good ones
2 travellingfrom 2595from 3245from 4930
4 travellingfrom 2130from 2660from 4045
6 travellingfrom 1920from 2400from 3650
Per person in US dollars, private trip, sharing a double or twin room. The three hotel tiers are the ones described on our How we book page. High season and single rooms cost more; your quote is itemised.

Three flights, four regional guide teams and the Ha Giang loop with a driver make this the most logistically involved route in the group. Choosing an easy rider in Ha Giang instead of a car changes the price slightly for couples. The Phong Nha lodges are small, so book early.

Included

What is included

What the price includes

  • Private car and driver in every region, including the whole Ha Giang loop
  • Our guide in the south; partner guides in Hoi An, Hue (and the DMZ), Phong Nha, Hanoi and Ha Giang
  • Twenty nights: hotels in your tier, guesthouses and one homestay on the loop
  • Saigon–Da Nang and Dong Hoi–Hanoi flights in economy
  • Meals as listed, cave entrance fees and boats

What it does not include

  • International flights and visas
  • Travel insurance, which should cover remote mountain areas
  • Drinks, tips and meals not listed
  • The Dark cave activities and any extended cave expeditions

Timing

Two windows, and why

JFMAMJJASONDSaigon and the deltaHoi An, Hue and Phong NhaHa Giang

● ideal · ◐ workable · ○ poor.

This route crosses all three climates and the far north, and there are two windows where they line up. March to April is the safer one: dry in the south and centre, the caves open and dry, and Ha Giang clear and green, with the peach and plum blossom finishing. Early to mid-October is the more beautiful and riskier one. Ha Giang has its harvest gold and buckwheat flowers, the delta is at high water, but the central coast is in its storm season and Phong Nha’s river caves can close after heavy rain.

We do not run it from July to August, because Ha Giang has landslides and Phong Nha floods, or in December and January, when the far north is cold and often misty.

Illuminated stalactites and a wooden walkway wind through the vast chamber of Paradise Cave in Vietnam.
Paradise cave
Stone statues of mandarins and a horse guard a stele pavilion at Khai Dinh Tomb near Hue.
Khai Dinh
Two farmers carry buckets past a flowering field with rocky karst terrain in the background in Ha Giang.
Dong Van
A suspension bridge crosses the turquoise Nho Que River beneath green terraced hills in Ha Giang.
Ma Pi Leng

Not for everyone

Who this does not suit

Anyone who cannot manage several long days in a vehicle: the DMZ day and the two Ha Giang transfers are six to nine hours each, on winding mountain road for much of it. People prone to car sickness should think hard. It also does not suit travellers who want beaches or rest. There is one free day in three weeks, at the end. If that sounds tiring, the eighteen-day slow route covers fewer places and is kinder to you.

Common questions

Questions travellers ask most

Can we fly closer to Ha Giang?

Not usefully; there is no airport on the loop. The drive from Hanoi is the only practical way in.

Is the DMZ day optional?

Yes. Without it, Hue to Phong Nha is about four hours by road, and you gain a morning in Hue.

Can we add Ha Long Bay?

As days 20 and 21 instead of the free day, with a longer trip overall. Most people are tired enough by then to prefer the free day.

A person stands on a cliff overlooking the turquoise Nho Que River winding through steep limestone mountains in Ha Giang.

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