A small boat with two fishermen crosses the Praek Tuek Chhu river near Kampot's bridge and misty hills.

Vietnam and the neighbours

Cambodia given room, with Saigon at the start

Two nights in Saigon, then Cambodia properly: three at Angkor, two in Battambang, two in Phnom Penh and two on the river at Kampot with nothing much planned.

Overview

Most people see Cambodia in three days. This is the other way.

The usual Cambodian add-on is Siem Reap and home. That misses the country between the temples and the sea: Battambang’s old shophouse streets and rice country, the capital on its rivers, and the south coast where Kampot sits on a slow tidal river under the Bokor hills. None of these is spectacular in the way Angkor is. Together they are a better picture of Cambodia than the temples alone.

Saigon opens the trip because most of our travellers fly into it anyway, and two nights is enough to shake off the flight and see the centre. After that the whole trip is Cambodian, and it ends in Phnom Penh, which has the better international connections home.

Long-exposure night traffic streaks past the illuminated Saigon Opera House and skyscrapers in Ho Chi Minh City.
A row of stone guardian statues lines the causeway to the South Gate of Angkor Thom in Siem Reap.
Two nights in Saigon to start · The south gate of Angkor Thom
Length
12 days, 11 nights
Start
Ho Chi Minh City
Finish
Phnom Penh
Flight
Saigon to Siem Reap
Longest drive
About 5 hours, Battambang to Phnom Penh
Pace
Relaxed, two free half-days

Nights

Where the nights fall

Ho Chi Minh City2 nightsCentral, for walkingSiem Reap3 nightsClose to town, away from the bar streetBattambang2 nightsNear the river and the old centrePhnom Penh2 nightsRiverside, walkable to the palaceKampot2 nightsOn the river, a little out of town

Day by day

Twelve days, one at a time

Day 1

Land in Saigon

Pick-up at the airport and the drive into the centre. If there is daylight left, the cathedral and post office are ten minutes’ walk from most central hotels.

StayCentral hotel in SaigonMealsNone includedTravel20-50 min

Day 2

Saigon with a guide

A morning walk that ends in Cho Lon: the palace, the war museum, then Binh Tay market and the Chinese assembly halls of District 5. The afternoon is yours.

StayCentral hotel in SaigonMealsBreakfast, lunchOn footAbout 5 km

Day 3

Fly to Siem Reap

About an hour and a quarter in the air, then roughly an hour from the new airport into town with our partner’s guide. Buy the Angkor pass in the late afternoon and use it for a first look at sunset.

StaySmall hotel in Siem ReapMealsBreakfastTravelAbout 1 hour

Day 4

The central temples

Angkor Wat, the Bayon and the terraces, ordered so that you are inside the big temples when the coach groups are elsewhere. A long lunch break through the hottest hours.

StaySmall hotel in Siem ReapMealsBreakfast, lunchOn foot6-8 km

Day 5

Banteay Srei and the Kbal Spean riverbed

North to Banteay Srei for its carved pink sandstone, then a forty-minute uphill walk through forest at Kbal Spean, where lingas and gods are carved into the riverbed itself. Afternoon at Ta Prohm, late, when it quietens.

StaySmall hotel in Siem ReapMealsBreakfast, lunchTravelAbout 2.5 hoursOn foot3 km, partly uphill

Day 6

By road to Battambang

About three hours west through rice country along the edge of the Tonle Sap plain. Afternoon walk through the old centre: the colonial shophouses, the market, and the riverside.

StayBoutique-style hotel in BattambangMealsBreakfast, lunchTravelAbout 3 hours

Day 7

Battambang’s countryside

The bat exodus at Phnom Sampeau at dusk

By tuk-tuk or bicycle through the villages along the river: rice-paper makers, a fish-paste yard, fruit orchards, a hilltop temple at Phnom Banan. At dusk, Phnom Sampeau, where millions of bats pour out of a cave mouth for about half an hour.

StayBoutique-style hotel in BattambangMealsBreakfast, lunchTravelAbout 2 hours by tuk-tuk

Day 8

On to Phnom Penh

The long road day: about five hours south-east through Pursat and Kampong Chhnang, with a stop at a pottery village. Arrive late afternoon, with time for a walk along Sisowath Quay.

StayRiverside hotel in Phnom PenhMealsBreakfast, lunchTravelAbout 5 hours

Day 9

Phnom Penh, and its history

Tuol Sleng in the morning, then Choeung Ek. We keep the rest of the morning empty, because most people need it. Afternoon at the Royal Palace and the Silver Pagoda, or simply a rest.

StayRiverside hotel in Phnom PenhMealsBreakfast, lunchTravelAbout 1.5 hours

Day 10

South to Kampot

About three hours to the coast. The afternoon is a pepper farm in the hills behind town, where Kampot pepper is grown on vines up wooden posts, and a boat on the river at sunset.

StayRiverside lodge near KampotMealsBreakfast, lunchTravelAbout 3 hours

Day 11

Kep, or nothing at all

Half an hour to Kep for the crab market, where the catch is bought off the boats and cooked on the spot, and a walk along the old seafront. Or skip it and stay by the river. We plan nothing else for this day, on purpose.

StayRiverside lodge near KampotMealsBreakfastTravel1 hour, if you go

Day 12

Back to Phnom Penh to fly

About three hours back to Phnom Penh airport. For a midday flight we leave Kampot early; for an evening one you have the morning by the river.

MealsBreakfastTravelAbout 3 hours
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Price

Price

TravellersTier 1 — simpleTier 2 — comfortableTier 3 — the good ones
2 travellingfrom 1695from 2120from 3220
4 travellingfrom 1390from 1735from 2640
6 travellingfrom 1255from 1570from 2385
Per person in US dollars, private trip, sharing a double or twin room. The three hotel tiers are the ones described on our How we book page. High season and single rooms cost more; your quote is itemised.

Most of the difference between tiers here is in Siem Reap and Kampot, where the Tier 3 hotels are genuinely good and priced to match. In Battambang the choice is small and the gap between tiers narrow. Swapping the five-hour road on day 8 for a flight is not practical — there are no regular flights from Battambang — so the road day is fixed.

Included

What is included

What the price includes

  • Eleven nights in the hotel tier you choose, with breakfast
  • Private car and driver throughout, and tuk-tuks in Battambang
  • English-speaking guides on every touring day
  • The flight from Saigon to Siem Reap, economy
  • A three-day Angkor pass and the entry fees in the day-by-day
  • The river boat at Kampot and the pepper farm visit
  • Lunches as listed
  • Our 24/7 line while you travel

What it does not include

  • International flights
  • Visas for Vietnam and Cambodia
  • Travel insurance
  • Drinks, most dinners and tips
  • Anything on the free day at Kep

Practical

Things to know before you book

Visas

You enter Cambodia by air at Siem Reap and leave from Phnom Penh, which are the two places where Cambodia’s e-visa is most straightforward. A visa on arrival is also issued at the airports. Your Vietnam entry is separate and depends on your passport. Rules and accepted gates change, so we check both at the time of booking rather than relying on what was true last season.

Everything in Cambodia is operated with our long-standing local partner there: their guides, their drivers, our planning. We have worked together for years and we visit, but we do not have a Cambodian office, and we say so.

Rural Battambang province still has unexploded ordnance in places. Stay on paths and roads, and do not wander into fields, which your guide will remind you of more than once. From March to May every day of this trip will be hot, Kampot included; the coast is not a cool escape.

Rooftop view over Battambang's market square and colorful shophouses under a wide sky.
Battambang’s old centre
A long stream of bats emerges from a limestone cliff cave near Battambang, flying against a grey dusk sky.
Phnom Sampeau at dusk
Rows of pepper vines climb wooden posts on a farm in Kampot province, Cambodia.
A pepper farm behind Kampot
Locals gather and trade goods on a shaded street corner in Kampot, Cambodia.
The crab market at Kep

Not for everyone

Who this does not suit

If you want a beach holiday at the end, Kampot is not it: it is a river town, and Kep’s beach is small and plain. Book the islands off Phu Quoc in Vietnam instead, or add them. This trip also asks you to sit through two longish road days, and it does not suit anyone who has already done Angkor and only wants the coast — for that, we would start in Phnom Penh and cut the first half.

Common questions

Questions travellers ask most

Why not include Sihanoukville or the islands?

Sihanoukville has been largely rebuilt around casinos and is not somewhere we send people. The islands off it are a separate trip with its own boat logistics; we can add them if you have three more nights.

Is the bamboo railway in Battambang still running?

The original line has gone; a short tourist version runs near town. We include it only if you ask, because the countryside by tuk-tuk is the better afternoon.

Can the Saigon part be dropped?

Yes. Start in Siem Reap and the trip becomes ten days in Cambodia alone, with the price adjusted.

A small boat with two fishermen crosses the Praek Tuek Chhu river near Kampot's bridge and misty hills.

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