Wooden boats carry tourists along a narrow water channel shaded by palm fronds in the Mekong Delta.

Themes

Let the river take the long legs

The Mekong Delta is easier to understand from a boat than from a road, and the northern bays only make sense once the day boats have gone home. These trips put the water at the centre.

Overview

Why travel by water here

Two parts of this region were built around water, and they are the two where a boat changes the trip most. The Mekong Delta is a web of rivers and canals where villages face the water and the road is the back door. A car gets you to the delta; a boat gets you into it. In the north, Ha Long, Lan Ha and Bai Tu Long bays are a sea of limestone islands that look much the same from any day boat at noon and entirely different at dusk and at six the next morning, when you are the only people in a lagoon.

Water also joins countries. The Mekong carries on from Chau Doc into Cambodia, and the river crossing to Phnom Penh is one of the few land borders in the region that is a pleasure to use. Further upstream, the river runs through southern Laos and the 4,000 islands. A boat-led route strings these together with as few road days as the map allows.

Vendors sell cabbages and vegetables from wooden boats at Can Tho's floating market on the Mekong Delta.Cai Rang at half past six. By nine most of the trading is done.

The trips

Trips where the boat matters

From three hours on the Saigon River at dusk to a week downstream from Angkor, these are the trips where time on the water is the point rather than a transfer.

A speedboat leaves a trail of white wake on a canal at dusk in Ho Chi Minh City's Phu My Hung area.

Day tour · from USD 85

Cu Chi by speedboat

Up the Saigon River to the tunnels and back, no highway traffic either way.

Tourists ride small wooden boats rowed by local boatmen on the Mekong River at dusk.

Day tour · from USD 55

My Tho and Ben Tre

The nearest delta, done on the back channels rather than the main stage.

Smiling women in conical hats row wooden sampans through a narrow palm-lined canal in the Mekong Delta.

Day tour · from USD 69

Cai Be and Vinh Long by sampan

Two hours further than most delta days, and the canals get narrower for it.

Modern apartment building entrance with glass canopy and lit storefronts at dusk in Ho Chi Minh City's Phu My Hung area.

Day tour · from USD 45

The Saigon River at dusk

Three hours on the water as the lights come on, with dinner on board.

A vendor in a conical hat prepares pineapples on a river boat while a tourist reaches for the produce near Can Tho.

2 days · from USD 195

Can Tho and Cai Rang, two days

A night on the river so the floating market happens at dawn, not at ten.

Rusty tin rooftops line the Hau River with wooden boats and floating water hyacinth in Chau Doc, Vietnam.

3 days · from USD 345

Deep delta to Chau Doc, three days

Can Tho, then west to the Cham villages, Sam mountain and Tra Su forest.

Sun setting over the sea and mangrove forest viewed from a lookout tower at Mui Ca Mau, Vietnam's southernmost point.

5 days · from USD 595

To the southern tip at Ca Mau

Five days down to where the country runs out into mangrove.

Limestone karsts rise above emerald water with cruise boats anchored below in Ha Long Bay.

2 days · from USD 295

Ha Long Bay overnight

One night aboard, the right boat, and the hour after the day boats leave.

Kayakers paddle colorful boats across calm green water beneath limestone karsts in Lan Ha Bay.

2 days · from USD 325

Lan Ha Bay overnight

The quieter bay south of Ha Long, with kayaking from the boat.

Cruise boats float near towering limestone karsts in Ha Long Bay, northern Vietnam.

6 days · from USD 795

Hanoi, Ninh Binh and the bay

The three northern essentials in six days, each given a proper night.

Rooftop view over the low-rise houses and rooftop terraces of Chau Doc at dusk, with a distant hill on the horizon.

10 days · from USD 1495

The Mekong to Angkor

Saigon, the delta, the river into Phnom Penh and on to Siem Reap.

Stilt wooden houses and long-tail boats line the riverbank of Don Khon in Si Phan Don, Laos.

16 days · from USD 2295

Vietnam and southern Laos

The south of Vietnam, then Pakse, the Bolaven plateau and the 4,000 islands.

Sun sets behind silhouetted limestone karsts over calm waters of Bai Tu Long Bay.

2 days · from USD 355

Bai Tu Long Bay, one night

The northern half of the bay, fewer boats, a fishing village by kayak.

A wooden tour boat and small fishing craft float on the Bassac River near Ninh Kieu in Can Tho, with a cable bridge in the.

2 days · from USD 325

The Bassac river overnight

A converted rice barge from Cai Be to Can Tho, one night afloat on the delta.

Cruise boats anchored among limestone karsts in Ha Long Bay, Vietnam.

3 days · from USD 495

Ha Long Bay, two nights aboard

The second morning is the quiet one. This is the trip built around it.

Tourists paddle blue kayaks along a limestone karst shoreline in Lan Ha Bay near Cat Ba.

3 days · from USD 525

Lan Ha Bay, two nights aboard

Two nights in the southern bay, with Cat Ba island and the lagoons by kayak.

A small boat drifts on the wide river at Chau Doc under a dramatic sunset sky.

5 days · from USD 1295

By river from Saigon to Phnom Penh

Five days up the Mekong on a small riverboat, crossing into Cambodia on the water.

The silhouetted towers of Angkor Wat rise above trees in the hazy morning light near Siem Reap.

8 days · from USD 2495

Angkor to the delta by river

Three days at the temples, then a week downstream to Saigon.

Boats

The kinds of boat, honestly described

BoatWhereWhat to expect
Rowing sampanDelta back canals, Tam Coc, Trang AnOne to four people, rowed, silent, an hour or two
Motor sampanCan Tho, Cai Be, Chau DocOur own boats and drivers, covered, for the wider channels
Overnight boatHa Long, Lan Ha, Bai Tu LongSteel or wooden hull, cabins with bathrooms, one or two nights
Converted rice bargeCai Be to Can ThoA few cabins, one night on the delta
River cruiserSaigon or the delta to Phnom Penh and Siem ReapSmall cabins, several nights, guided excursions ashore
SpeedboatChau Doc to Phnom Penh, Saigon to Cu ChiFast, functional, a way to cover distance on the water

On the bays, the boat is most of what you pay for, and quality varies more than the photographs suggest. We book boats whose safety record, cabin condition and route permits we know, and we will tell you plainly if a cheaper boat is fine or not. The route matters as much as the boat: Lan Ha and Bai Tu Long are quieter than the central Ha Long route, and a second night buys a morning in the bay after the one-night boats have turned back.

When to go

Seasons on the water

The delta is navigable all year, but it changes. From about August to November the water is high, the canals are full and the fields flood; this is the season for the Dong Thap wetlands and the reason some roads near Chau Doc are underwater. From January to April the water is lower and the weather drier and easier. Floating markets run every day of the year; their best hour is always the first.

The northern bays have a different calendar. October to December is usually the best period: dry, clear and mild. January to March is cool and often misty, which is atmospheric and poor for swimming. May to September is warm enough to swim, but it is also storm season, and the port authority closes the bay to overnight boats when a storm is forecast. When that happens we move you to a day on land or the next available sailing; the boats refund or rebook, and we sort it out for you.

Two people paddle a blue kayak along a green lagoon lined with limestone cliffs in Lan Ha Bay.
A small rowboat carries people past corrugated metal stilt houses along the river in Chau Doc.
Lan Ha from a kayak, the morning after the day boats have gone. · The Mekong at Chau Doc, the start of the river route to Phnom Penh.

Trade-offs

What changes, and who should skip it

  • Hours: early starts in the delta, because the markets and the light are best before eight; late returns on the bays, because the best hour is the last one.
  • Hotels: fewer nights in hotels at all. A boat night replaces one, and a delta homestay often replaces another.
  • Costs: the bays cost more than people expect, and a private boat for two costs much more. River cruises to Cambodia are priced per cabin and include most meals.
  • What we drop: long road days. If a leg can be done by water in a similar time, we do it by water.

A boat-led trip does not suit people who get seasick on flat water, and those who do should know the bays are almost always calm while the open sea off Cat Ba is not. It does not suit anyone who needs full accessibility: boarding a sampan from a riverbank or a tender from a pier means steps, planks and a hand from the crew. Tell us and we will pick the boats where this is easiest.

Checklist

Checklist for time on the water

  • Sandals that grip on a wet deck, and a light waterproof for the delta.
  • A dry bag for phones and cameras on sampans and kayaks.
  • Motion-sickness tablets if you are prone, even for the bays.
  • For the river crossing into Cambodia, check your visa arrangements before you travel; we confirm the current rules when you book.
  • Cash in small notes for tipping boat crews, which is customary and never included.

Common questions

Questions travellers ask most

Is one night on Ha Long Bay enough?

One night gives you a sunset and a sunrise, which is the heart of it. Two nights gives you a full day in the quieter parts of the bay, and most people who do it say it was the better choice.

How does the river crossing into Cambodia work?

Boats run from Chau Doc up the Mekong to Phnom Penh in about five hours, stopping at the border posts where you complete formalities on land. Visa rules change, so we confirm what your passport needs when you book.

Are the delta boats safe for children?

Our sampans carry life jackets, including small sizes, and our drivers do not run the channels at speed. Children need to sit when the boat is moving, and our crews are firm about it.

Wooden boats carry tourists along a narrow water channel shaded by palm fronds in the Mekong Delta.

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