A stone pathway runs beside old moat walls with a distant gate tower at the Imperial City of Hue.

Themes

The past, told straight

Most visitors come with one war in mind. The country has two thousand years of history on top of it, and the recent past makes more sense when you see the older layers too. We plan history trips that do both.

Overview

More than one war

Visitors from the West often arrive with the American war as the whole story. For the Vietnamese it is one chapter in a longer account that includes a thousand years under China, the Nguyen dynasty and its court at Hue, eighty years of French rule, the war against France that ended at Dien Bien Phu in 1954, and the war that ended in Saigon in 1975. Further south and in the centre, the older kingdom of Champa left brick towers that still stand. Across the border, Cambodia carries Angkor and the Khmer Rouge years in the same landscape.

A history trip threads these together so each site has context. The tunnels at Cu Chi mean more after a morning in the war museum; the citadel at Hue means more when you know why the Nguyen emperors built it, and what happened to it in 1968. Our guides are chosen for this: several grew up near the places they talk about, and their families lived through what they describe.

A couple poses at the yellow gate entrance to Vinh Moc Tunnels national relic site near Hue.Vinh Moc, the tunnel village on the old demarcation line.

The trips

Trips for people who read the plaques

From half a day at the tunnels to three weeks across three countries, every trip here gives the sites room and the guide time to explain them.

Ben Duoc Temple's ornate pagoda-style facade with Vietnamese flags stands before a wide stone courtyard in Cu Chi.

Day tour · from USD 35

Cu Chi tunnels, half day

The tunnels at Ben Duoc, early, before the coaches — back for lunch.

A speedboat leaves a trail of white wake on a canal at dusk in Ho Chi Minh City's Phu My Hung area.

Day tour · from USD 85

Cu Chi by speedboat

Up the Saigon River to the tunnels and back, no highway traffic either way.

A rower guides tourists in conical hats through a narrow water palm channel on the Mekong Delta.

Day tour · from USD 75

Cu Chi and the delta in one day

Eleven hours, four in the van. For people who truly have one day — with the timings on it.

The Independence Palace facade with a fountain and green lawn under a clear sky in Saigon.

Day tour · from USD 45

Saigon in a day, on foot

The palace, the war museum, the post office and a market, paced around the heat.

Red lanterns decorate the ornate roof and gates of Tue Thanh Assembly Hall temple in Saigon

Day tour · from USD 35

Cho Lon, the Chinese city

Binh Tay market, the assembly halls and a herbalist street, before the heat.

A tall apartment block with barred balconies and a bright yellow stairwell stands behind trees in Ho Chi Minh City.

Day tour · from USD 35

Saigon buildings, colonial to modernist

A walk through a century of façades, from French villas to 1960s apartment blocks.

A landscaped park with manicured hedges and shady trees leads to a school gate in Ben Tre, Mekong Delta.

2 days · from USD 215

Cu Chi and the delta, done in two

The famous one-day combination, split so both halves get a proper day.

Traffic passes buildings including Liberty Central hotel along Bach Dang Quay in Ho Chi Minh City.

3 days · from USD 295

Saigon in depth, three days

The city given three days: food, history, and the districts nobody visits.

A quiet mountain road with red-and-white guardrail markers winds through forested hills in Con Dao.

3 days · from USD 525

Con Dao, three days

The island prison, turtle beaches and a sea that is actually clear.

Aerial view of Hue Imperial City's illuminated gate and moat at dusk, surrounded by green parkland.

3 days · from USD 325

Hue, the imperial city

The citadel, the tombs by boat and bicycle, and the food of the old court.

Tourists pose beside an abandoned US Air Force cargo plane at a former airbase near Hue.

3 days · from USD 425

The DMZ and Hue

A full day north of Hue on the demarcation line, told by a guide who grew up there.

Ancient brick tower ruins at My Son sanctuary sit among lush trees with visitors strolling the pathways below.

4 days · from USD 525

My Son and Hoi An

The Cham sanctuary at opening time, then three slow days in the old port.

A hairpin bend winds down a forested mountainside above the sea on the road between Hue and Hoi An.

5 days · from USD 695

Hue to Hoi An over the pass

Two nights in each, joined by the Hai Van pass in daylight.

Illuminated stalactites and a wooden walkway light up the vast interior of Paradise Cave in Vietnam.

7 days · from USD 985

Central Vietnam in a week

Phong Nha, Hue and Hoi An: caves, the imperial city and the old port.

An ornate stone temple gate with carved dragons stands on a busy Hanoi street lined with shops and parked motorbikes.

2 days · from USD 235

Hanoi, two days

The Old Quarter, the Temple of Literature and a street-food night, at walking pace.

Ngo Mon Gate's fortified walls and tiered pavilion rise above the moat at the Hue Imperial City.

12 days · from USD 1495

Vietnam in 12 days, north to south

The winter direction: the north first, the warm south to finish.

A small fishing boat drifts among misty limestone karsts at dawn in Ha Long Bay, Vietnam.

14 days · from USD 1695

Vietnam in 14 days

All three regions, four bases, two flights: the honest minimum.

A person stands on a cliff overlooking the turquoise Nho Que River winding through steep limestone mountains in Ha Giang.

21 days · from USD 2595

Vietnam in depth, 21 days

Three weeks, including Phong Nha and the far north, without cutting the south.

Angkor Wat's stone towers and galleries reflect in the surrounding moat under a cloudy sky in Siem Reap.

7 days · from USD 995

Saigon and Angkor in a week

Three nights in the south, then a one-hour flight to three days at the temples.

Rooftop view over the low-rise houses and rooftop terraces of Chau Doc at dusk, with a distant hill on the horizon.

10 days · from USD 1495

The Mekong to Angkor

Saigon, the delta, the river into Phnom Penh and on to Siem Reap.

A wooden tourist junk boat docks at a floating platform among towering limestone karsts in Ha Long Bay.

14 days · from USD 1895

Vietnam and Cambodia, 14 days

Hanoi and the bay, Hoi An, Saigon, then three days at Angkor.

Aerial view of Luang Prabang town along the Nam Khan River, surrounded by mountains, seen from Mount Phousi.

21 days · from USD 3195

Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos, 21 days

Three countries in three weeks, with the flights doing the long legs.

Limestone cliffs rise above riverside stilt houses and long-tail boats on the Mekong near Luang Prabang.

24 days · from USD 3695

The grand Indochina route, 24 days

Luang Prabang and Vientiane, the length of Vietnam, the river to Phnom Penh, Angkor.

The silhouetted towers of Angkor Wat rise above trees in the hazy morning light near Siem Reap.

8 days · from USD 2495

Angkor to the delta by river

Three days at the temples, then a week downstream to Saigon.

The layers

The layers, and where to see them

PeriodWhereWhat survives
Champa, roughly 4th to 13th centuriesMy Son, Nha Trang, Quy NhonBrick temple towers, sculpture in Da Nang’s museum
Nguyen dynasty, 1802 to 1945HueThe citadel, royal tombs along the Perfume River
French colonial, about 1860s to 1954Saigon, Hanoi, Da LatThe post office, opera houses, villas, the old prison in Hanoi
War with the United States, to 1975Cu Chi, the DMZ, Saigon, Con DaoTunnels, the Independence Palace, museums, prison camps
Khmer Rouge, 1975 to 1979Phnom PenhTuol Sleng and the killing fields at Choeung Ek

The DMZ deserves a full day from Hue rather than the rushed version: the Vinh Moc tunnels where villagers lived underground, the Hien Luong bridge on the Ben Hai river, and the old base at Khe Sanh. Con Dao, off the southern coast, was a prison island under both the French and the Saigon government, and its cells and cemetery are sobering. In Hanoi, the Hoa Lo prison, the Temple of Literature and the mausoleum give three very different views of the same state.

Ancient brick towers of the My Son sanctuary stand amid greenery under a clear blue sky.
A tourist emerges from a sandbag bunker entrance at a former military site on the Hue DMZ tour.
My Son at opening time, before the heat and the coaches. · Hien Luong, where the country was divided at the 17th parallel.

Tone

Tone, and what to expect from the sites

Museums in Vietnam tell the story from the side that won, and some of them tell it bluntly. The War Remnants Museum in Saigon includes photographs of the effects of Agent Orange that many visitors find very hard to look at. We do not soften this and we do not add to it. Our guides give the Vietnamese view, their family’s view where it is relevant, and the wider context when you ask for it. Visitors from the United States, from Australia and from France are welcome everywhere, and veterans who come back are often met with a warmth they did not expect.

In Cambodia the Khmer Rouge sites are the hardest days of any trip we plan. We do Tuol Sleng and Choeung Ek on the same morning, with an audio guide at the killing fields, and leave the afternoon empty.

Trade-offs

What changes, and who should look elsewhere

  • Pace: longer at each site, and fewer sites per day. Two heavy sites in one day is our limit.
  • Guides: senior guides with the depth to answer questions, which costs a little more than a standard guide.
  • Hours: early starts at the popular sites, both for the heat and for the space to think.
  • What we drop: shopping stops, and the souvenir-heavy parts of the standard routes.

History trips do not suit young children for the war sites in particular, and they do not suit anyone who wants their holiday light. They are also not the right choice if you want a detailed military tour of one campaign; we can arrange specialist guiding in the DMZ, but it is a narrow interest and we plan it separately.

Checklist

Checklist for a history trip

  • Read one good general history of modern Vietnam before you come; it makes the guiding twice as useful.
  • Dress for temples and memorials: shoulders and knees covered.
  • Keep an afternoon free after the hardest sites.
  • If a family member served here, tell us where; we can often plan a visit to the place.

Common questions

Questions travellers ask most

Is it appropriate for Americans to visit the war sites?

Yes. Many do each year, and the reception is overwhelmingly friendly. The museums are one-sided; the people you meet rarely are.

Can you find the place where my father was stationed?

Often, if you have unit records or place names. Bases have mostly gone, but guides in the DMZ and around Saigon know the old sites and how to reach them.

How long do we need in Hue?

Two full days for the citadel and the tombs, plus a day for the DMZ if you want it.

A stone pathway runs beside old moat walls with a distant gate tower at the Imperial City of Hue.

Start planning

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