Two bamboo-frame bicycles parked against a yellow wall in Hoi An.

Themes

Stay long enough to stop being a visitor

The usual route moves every two nights and spends a day in five on the road. A slow trip moves every four, and uses the time it saves to settle into a place long enough to have a favourite café.

Overview

The case for staying put

Every move on a trip costs roughly half a day: packing, checking out, the drive or the flight, checking in and finding your bearings again. On a fourteen-night route with seven stops that is three and a half days of the holiday spent in transit. Slow travel cuts the stops to four or five, and the difference is not just time. On the third morning in a town you know where to get coffee, the woman at the fruit stall recognises you, and you stop sightseeing and start noticing.

It is the trip many of our travellers book on their second visit, after the first one taught them what they missed. We think it works just as well the first time, provided you accept that you will not see everything. Vietnam is long; nobody sees all of it in three weeks, and the people who try see mostly the inside of vehicles.

Vendors sell fruit baskets from a small boat to tourists on a larger boat at Cai Rang floating market, Can Tho.Can Tho on a third morning, when the town has become familiar.

The trips

Trips that take their time

Some of these are long routes with fewer bases than usual; some are short trips to places that reward staying on, like the delta’s far corners or the Laos river towns.

An ornate ancestral hall with intricate stone carvings and arched doorways in Dong Thap, Vietnam.

Day tour · from USD 79

Sa Dec and the Dong Thap lotus ponds

Flower villages, a colonial merchant house and lotus fields: a long day, worth it.

A boy stands on a wooden plank walkway beside a muddy canal lined with thatched houses in the Mekong Delta.

2 days · from USD 175

A delta homestay, two days

An Binh island, a family house, a night without traffic noise.

Beachgoers wade along a sandy shore with green hills in the distance at Mui Nai beach near Ha Tien.

4 days · from USD 565

Chau Doc to Ha Tien, four days

The delta’s western edge: a border town, karst by the sea, the quiet coast road.

Sun setting over the sea and mangrove forest viewed from a lookout tower at Mui Ca Mau, Vietnam's southernmost point.

5 days · from USD 595

To the southern tip at Ca Mau

Five days down to where the country runs out into mangrove.

A cyclist pauses on a countryside path beside lotus ponds near Trà Quế vegetable village in Hoi An.

3 days · from USD 425

Hoi An by bicycle

Vegetable villages, the river islands and Cua Dai, all flat and all before lunch.

A long pier with lamp posts stretches across a sandy beach toward the sea in Quy Nhon.

4 days · from USD 545

Quy Nhon and the quiet coast

The central coast before the resorts: fishing villages, Cham towers, empty coves.

A couple sits at a hillside viewpoint café overlooking green hills and the coast along the Hue to Hoi An road.

6 days · from USD 885

The central coast by train

Dong Hoi to Quy Nhon on the coastal line, four stops, no long drives.

A thatched-roof stilt house sits among green vegetable fields with limestone mountains behind it in Mai Chau.

2 days · from USD 255

Mai Chau valley

A White Thai valley three and a half hours from Hanoi, a stilt house and bicycles.

Visitors cross a bamboo bridge past traditional water wheels and a water buffalo in Pu Luong, Thanh Hoa.

3 days · from USD 385

Pu Luong nature reserve

Terraces, bamboo bridges and a lodge with no road noise at all.

Terraced rice fields ripple across a wide valley below forested mountains in Mu Cang Chai.

9 days · from USD 1295

The northwest loop

Mai Chau, Mu Cang Chai and Sapa in one circuit, nine days, no backtracking.

A train winds along tracks beside a wet coastal road through green hills near Da Nang on an overcast day.

15 days · from USD 1795

Vietnam by train, 15 days

Saigon to Hanoi on the Reunification line: four daylight legs and one night train.

Thatched-roof stilt houses nestled among palm trees and green rice terraces in Pu Luong Nature Reserve.

18 days · from USD 2295

Slow Vietnam, 18 days

Five bases in seventeen nights. The trip most people book the second time.

Terraced rice fields ripple across steep hillsides with scattered farmhouses in Hoang Su Phi, Ha Giang.

22 days · from USD 2895

From the delta to the mountains

Twenty-two days from Chau Doc to Ha Giang, with the coast in between.

Rooftop view over the low-rise houses and rooftop terraces of Chau Doc at dusk, with a distant hill on the horizon.

10 days · from USD 1495

The Mekong to Angkor

Saigon, the delta, the river into Phnom Penh and on to Siem Reap.

A small boat with two fishermen crosses the Praek Tuek Chhu river near Kampot's bridge and misty hills.

12 days · from USD 1695

Saigon, Angkor and the Cambodian coast

Temples, Battambang, the capital and two nights of nothing at Kampot.

Buddhist monks in saffron robes walk in procession past a golden-roofed temple in Luang Prabang.

15 days · from USD 2195

Vietnam and Laos, 15 days

The length of Vietnam with four slow nights in Luang Prabang.

Stilt wooden houses and long-tail boats line the riverbank of Don Khon in Si Phan Don, Laos.

16 days · from USD 2295

Vietnam and southern Laos

The south of Vietnam, then Pakse, the Bolaven plateau and the 4,000 islands.

Limestone cliffs rise above riverside stilt houses and long-tail boats on the Mekong near Luang Prabang.

24 days · from USD 3695

The grand Indochina route, 24 days

Luang Prabang and Vientiane, the length of Vietnam, the river to Phnom Penh, Angkor.

A small boat drifts on the wide river at Chau Doc under a dramatic sunset sky.

5 days · from USD 1295

By river from Saigon to Phnom Penh

Five days up the Mekong on a small riverboat, crossing into Cambodia on the water.

What changes

How the shape of the trip changes

A standard 18 daysA slow 18 days
Bases7 or 84 or 5
Nights per base2, sometimes 13 to 5
Travel daysAbout 6About 3
Guided daysMost daysAbout half the days
Internal flights3 or 41 or 2, with trains and road between

We use trains where they make sense. The coastal railway between Hue and Da Nang is one of the loveliest short journeys in the country; the line between Dong Hoi and Hue, and the stretch south towards Quy Nhon and Nha Trang, turn a transfer into part of the trip. Boats do the same in the delta and on the Mekong into Cambodia and Laos. Flights are kept for the legs where the alternative is a full day on a road.

Guiding changes too. On a slow trip the guide is with you for the first day in each base, to show you how the place works, and then on the days you want company. The other days are yours, with a driver on call and a list of things within reach.

Where

Where slow travel works best

Some places reward a long stay far more than others. Hoi An is the obvious one: after two days the old town stops being a sight, and the villages, beaches and river islands around it come into view. Hue suits four nights, with the tombs by bicycle and a morning on the river. In the delta, Can Tho and Chau Doc repay three nights each, with a homestay in between. In the north, Pu Luong and Mai Chau are made for staying, and Hanoi is a city that improves on the fourth day. Across the borders, Luang Prabang, Kampot and the 4,000 islands in southern Laos are three of the slowest places in the region.

For timing, slow routes suit the shoulder months best: February to April and September to November. Longer stays in the south are comfortable from December to March; the centre is at its most pleasant from February to May.

Sunrise over mist-covered valleys and terraced rice fields in Pu Luong Nature Reserve.
Old steam locomotive display in front of the arched facade of Da Nang railway station under a cloudy sky.
Pu Luong, where three nights feels short. · The coastal line south of Hue, a transfer worth taking slowly.

Trade-offs

Costs, and who it does not suit

  • Cheaper: fewer flights, fewer transfers, fewer guided days. On a long trip this more than covers the next point.
  • Dearer: better rooms. When you spend four nights somewhere the room matters more, and we usually suggest going up a tier for at least two bases.
  • Unchanged: entrance fees and meals, which are a small share of the total.
  • Dropped: the famous second-tier stops that exist mainly to break a long drive.

Slow travel does not suit anyone on a first visit with ten days who wants to see Hanoi, Ha Long, Hoi An, Saigon and the delta; that route exists, and it is a good one, but it is not slow. It does not suit travellers who get restless without a plan for every day. And it is not for anyone who wants a guide to fill every hour.

Checklist

A checklist for a slow trip

  • Choose four places, not seven; we will tell you which ones reward time.
  • Pick rooms with space and a window, since you will be in them.
  • Bring a book, and leave room in the bag for the things you will buy in a market on day three.
  • Keep one base with a kitchen or a café downstairs, for the days you do nothing.

Common questions

Questions travellers ask most

Will I get bored staying four nights in one place?

Almost nobody does, because each base has enough within an hour to fill the time, and we leave a list with the driver. The more common complaint is leaving too soon.

Is slow travel cheaper?

Per day, usually a little, because transport and guiding are the expensive lines. Most people spend the saving on better rooms.

Can we travel between bases by train?

On the central coast and along the main north–south line, yes. We book seats in the best available class and plan the daylight legs.

Two bamboo-frame bicycles parked against a yellow wall in Hoi An.

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