Layered green mountain ridges and a winding road stretch through the valley near Mu Cang Chai, Yen Bai province.

Themes

Planned for the light, not the ticket office

A photography trip moves the day to the edges: the hour after sunrise and the hour before dark. We build routes around that, with the right months for each landscape and guides who understand why you have stopped.

Overview

What changes when light comes first

The ordinary tourist day runs from nine to five, which is exactly when the light in the tropics is flattest and harshest. A photography trip inverts it. We plan the first outing for half an hour before sunrise, a long break from eleven to three, and a second outing that runs into dusk. On a typical day that means leaving at 05:15 in the south, a little later in the northern winter, and eating dinner after dark.

It also means staying close to the subject. A hotel in the right village beats a better hotel an hour away, because an hour away turns a dawn shoot into a 04:00 alarm. In Ninh Binh we stay among the karsts rather than in the town; in Sapa we sleep in the valley, not the resort town; on the bays we stay aboard so the evening and the morning both happen on the water.

Aerial view of Hoi An's old town rooftops and lantern-lit streets crowded with visitors at dusk.Hoi An in the blue hour, before the crowds arrive for dinner.

The trips

Trips built for the camera

These trips have dawn and dusk written into their timetables. Most can be pushed further towards the light if you tell us that is what you are here for.

Smiling women in conical hats row wooden sampans through a narrow palm-lined canal in the Mekong Delta.

Day tour · from USD 69

Cai Be and Vinh Long by sampan

Two hours further than most delta days, and the canals get narrower for it.

An ornate ancestral hall with intricate stone carvings and arched doorways in Dong Thap, Vietnam.

Day tour · from USD 79

Sa Dec and the Dong Thap lotus ponds

Flower villages, a colonial merchant house and lotus fields: a long day, worth it.

Red lanterns decorate the ornate roof and gates of Tue Thanh Assembly Hall temple in Saigon

Day tour · from USD 35

Cho Lon, the Chinese city

Binh Tay market, the assembly halls and a herbalist street, before the heat.

A tall apartment block with barred balconies and a bright yellow stairwell stands behind trees in Ho Chi Minh City.

Day tour · from USD 35

Saigon buildings, colonial to modernist

A walk through a century of façades, from French villas to 1960s apartment blocks.

Yellow entrance gate of Đình Khánh Hội communal temple on a narrow street in Ho Chi Minh City.

Day tour · from USD 45

Backstreets by motorbike

District 4, the canal side and the alleys — the city you do not see from a car.

A vendor in a conical hat prepares pineapples on a river boat while a tourist reaches for the produce near Can Tho.

2 days · from USD 195

Can Tho and Cai Rang, two days

A night on the river so the floating market happens at dawn, not at ten.

Rusty tin rooftops line the Hau River with wooden boats and floating water hyacinth in Chau Doc, Vietnam.

3 days · from USD 345

Deep delta to Chau Doc, three days

Can Tho, then west to the Cham villages, Sam mountain and Tra Su forest.

Beachgoers wade along a sandy shore with green hills in the distance at Mui Nai beach near Ha Tien.

4 days · from USD 565

Chau Doc to Ha Tien, four days

The delta’s western edge: a border town, karst by the sea, the quiet coast road.

Sunlight glows over rippled sand dunes at Mui Ne, casting long shadows across the desert landscape.

2 days · from USD 225

Mui Ne dunes and the coast

Four hours east for red dunes at dawn, fishing boats and a night by the sea.

Ancient brick tower ruins at My Son sanctuary sit among lush trees with visitors strolling the pathways below.

4 days · from USD 525

My Son and Hoi An

The Cham sanctuary at opening time, then three slow days in the old port.

A couple sits at a hillside viewpoint café overlooking green hills and the coast along the Hue to Hoi An road.

6 days · from USD 885

The central coast by train

Dong Hoi to Quy Nhon on the coastal line, four stops, no long drives.

Tourists in life jackets ride a small wooden boat along a green river surrounded by limestone hills in Ninh Binh.

2 days · from USD 245

Ninh Binh, a night in the karsts

Rowing boats through caves at Trang An and a night among the limestone.

Kayakers paddle colorful boats across calm green water beneath limestone karsts in Lan Ha Bay.

2 days · from USD 325

Lan Ha Bay overnight

The quieter bay south of Ha Long, with kayaking from the boat.

Terraced rice fields surround a small village in the Muong Hoa valley near Ta Van, Sapa.

3 days · from USD 395

Sapa, walking the valleys

Two days on foot between Hmong and Dao villages, a homestay night.

Wide tiered curtains of white water cascade over limestone cliffs into a turquoise pool at Ban Gioc Waterfall.

3 days · from USD 435

Cao Bang and Ban Gioc falls

The border waterfall, Nguom Ngao cave and the Tay villages around them.

A turquoise river winds through the deep Nho Que canyon as seen from Ma Pi Leng Pass in Ha Giang.

4 days · from USD 525

The Ha Giang loop

The whole loop with an easy rider or a car, four days, not three rushed ones.

Aerial view of flooded terraced rice fields carving curving patterns into hillsides in Mu Cang Chai.

4 days · from USD 565

Mu Cang Chai terraces

The terraces at harvest or at flooding time, and the Khau Pha pass.

A woman sits on a rock ledge overlooking the winding mountain roads of the Ha Giang Loop.

7 days · from USD 995

Ha Giang and Cao Bang

The far north end to end: the loop, then east along the border to Ban Gioc.

Terraced rice fields ripple across a wide valley below forested mountains in Mu Cang Chai.

9 days · from USD 1295

The northwest loop

Mai Chau, Mu Cang Chai and Sapa in one circuit, nine days, no backtracking.

A small fishing boat drifts among misty limestone karsts at dawn in Ha Long Bay, Vietnam.

14 days · from USD 1695

Vietnam in 14 days

All three regions, four bases, two flights: the honest minimum.

A train winds along tracks beside a wet coastal road through green hills near Da Nang on an overcast day.

15 days · from USD 1795

Vietnam by train, 15 days

Saigon to Hanoi on the Reunification line: four daylight legs and one night train.

A person stands on a cliff overlooking the turquoise Nho Que River winding through steep limestone mountains in Ha Giang.

21 days · from USD 2595

Vietnam in depth, 21 days

Three weeks, including Phong Nha and the far north, without cutting the south.

Terraced rice fields ripple across steep hillsides with scattered farmhouses in Hoang Su Phi, Ha Giang.

22 days · from USD 2895

From the delta to the mountains

Twenty-two days from Chau Doc to Ha Giang, with the coast in between.

Angkor Wat's stone towers and galleries reflect in the surrounding moat under a cloudy sky in Siem Reap.

7 days · from USD 995

Saigon and Angkor in a week

Three nights in the south, then a one-hour flight to three days at the temples.

Sun sets behind silhouetted limestone karsts over calm waters of Bai Tu Long Bay.

2 days · from USD 355

Bai Tu Long Bay, one night

The northern half of the bay, fewer boats, a fishing village by kayak.

Tourists paddle blue kayaks along a limestone karst shoreline in Lan Ha Bay near Cat Ba.

3 days · from USD 525

Lan Ha Bay, two nights aboard

Two nights in the southern bay, with Cat Ba island and the lagoons by kayak.

Seasons

Seasons that decide the picture

SubjectBest monthsNotes
Northern rice terraces (Mu Cang Chai, Sapa)Mid-September to early October; May to JuneGolden harvest; then water-filled terraces at planting
Ha Giang flowers and karstOctober to NovemberBuckwheat flowers, clear air, cold nights
Dong Thap lotusRoughly May to AugustEarly morning only, before the flowers close in the heat
Delta floating marketsAll yearThe first hour after dawn; by nine it is over
Hoi An lanternsAll year; full-moon nights are busiestBlue hour, 30 minutes after sunset
Northern baysOctober to December; March to MayMist in winter can be beautiful or total

A harvest is not a date on a calendar. Terraces ripen at different weeks in different valleys and from year to year, so we check with our partners in the north a few weeks ahead and adjust the order of the route if we need to. The same goes for the lotus fields, which depend on the water and the farmers’ planting.

Etiquette

Photographing people, and the rules

The best pictures in Vietnam often have people in them, and this is where a photography trip needs the most care. Ask before you photograph anyone at close range; a gesture at the camera and a nod is usually enough, and a refusal is a refusal. Do not pay people to pose — it changes villages, and not for the better. In the northern mountains, be particularly thoughtful with children and with women selling handicrafts; our guides will translate and explain when a family would rather not. Inside temples and pagodas, watch for signs and do not photograph people at prayer.

Some things may not be photographed at all: military installations, border posts and some government buildings. Drones need official permission in Vietnam, and that permission is slow, specific and often refused near cities, heritage sites and borders. We do not arrange drone flights, and we recommend leaving the drone at home rather than risking it at customs or with the police.

Vendors on wooden boats trade fruit at Cai Rang floating market near Can Tho on the Mekong Delta river.
Cai Rang, 06:30: ask first, then shoot.
A winding road curves through pointed karst limestone peaks in the Ha Giang mountains of Vietnam.
The Ha Giang loop in late October, after the rains.
A quiet canal bordered by grassy banks and green rice fields under a blue sky in Dong Thap.
Dong Thap in the early morning, before the flowers close.

Trade-offs

Guides, costs, and who should not choose this

  • Guides: in Hoi An, Hue, Hanoi and Ha Giang we can book a working photographer as your guide. Elsewhere, a normal guide who has been briefed to find the light and keep quiet.
  • Costs: a second vehicle when half the party wants to sleep in, extra nights close to the subject, and occasional private boats at dawn.
  • What we drop: midday sightseeing, and some famous sites whose opening hours fall entirely in bad light.

This is not a good choice for anyone who needs a full night’s sleep every night, or for a mixed party where most people are not photographers — the non-photographers will be bored at sunrise and tired by dinner. We can split the day for such a party, with two vehicles, but it is better to know that before we plan.

Checklist

Checklist for photographers

  • Spare batteries and a charger that works on 220 volts; power cuts in the mountains are not rare.
  • A rain cover for the camera from May to October in the south and centre.
  • A small head torch for dawn walks.
  • Leave the drone at home unless you already hold a permit.
  • Insurance that covers the value of your equipment.

Common questions

Questions travellers ask most

How early are the starts, really?

Between 04:45 and 05:30 on shoot days, depending on the season and how far we are from the subject. We say so in the day-by-day, and we put the next day’s start later when we can.

Can I bring a tripod everywhere?

Almost everywhere outdoors. Some temples, museums and the citadel in Hue restrict tripods, and boats are not steady enough for long exposures.

Can you arrange a drone permit?

No. Permits are issued by the authorities for specific flights, take a long time and are often refused. We do not arrange drone flights.

Layered green mountain ridges and a winding road stretch through the valley near Mu Cang Chai, Yen Bai province.

Start planning

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Dates, party size and the places you care about are enough to start. You get a draft route and an indicative price, not a brochure.

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